2014 - Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol

Deep garnet-brick in color, the 2014 Vieux Chateau Certan is a little shy to start, offering up faint notes of candied violets and licorice opening out to a core of preserved plums and Christmas cake plus a waft of sandalwood. The full-bodied palate delivers a refreshing backbone and fine-grained tannins to support the taut, powerful black fruits, finishing long and earthy.

Well judged, a more serious Pomerol than many, so subtle and beguiling in its construction, truffles, white pepper, cranberry, smoked earth, violet flowers, attractive floral edge and this is just gorgeous, grilled and wrapped up in caressing VCC tannins, with an intellectual edge, or rather an edge that keeps you engaged and wanting more.

The 2014 Vieux Château Certan comes from two bottles, the first out of condition. The second has a potent Cabernet Franc-driven nose, which is no surprise, as it comprises 30% of the blend: bell pepper and black pepper infusing the black fruit. There is almost a Loire-like scent. The palate is medium-bodied with granular tannins, fine acidity and grip with truffle and raspberry. It's earthy with just a touch of dark chocolate on the finish. This Pomerol is surfeit with character and is just about to enter its drinking window. Tasted at the VCC vertical in Etikhove, Belgium.